A calm and exquisite show at Dries van Noten; in fact, this is nothing I have seen before. With the sounds of birds, the girls walked peacefully down the catwalk on green moss, wearing lightweight dresses with fine straps, see-through blouses, and loose trousers, some in a harem style, paired with zipped jackets or long tailored coats…This nonchalance is contrasted with the incredibly researched and worked on fabrics, as each piece took a few months to be created in the designer’s studio. The result: rich and luminous textures, finely cut to form a wardrobe that’s simple but stylish. At the end the girls with natural makeup and hair, lay down across the floor making us think of a “seating” of Woodstock or even a painting of young girls in a field of flowers.
Dries Van Noten tells us, “I really wanted to do something beautiful, fluid, feminine, above all with simple pieces, so the girl could put them on without having to think. She goes to the beach, she has a little brunch, and that becomes a gem, so really it’s about the lightness. I created lots of textures, it was hard work to create all these fabrics and when I got them, I didn’t want to do a collection, I just wanted to make beautiful clothes. In all of the pieces there also are a lot of cuts, so it’s not only about textures, but it’s truly about the work with the bias cuts, jacquard prints which needed a very specific treatment for the pattern making, so it’s a collection very elaborate not only with the materials but also with the shapes. The green of course on the rugs, the lightness, the nature, walking on the moss.”
Photo by Charles Platiau
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